Keeping your landscaping, flower beds and plants in weed-free nurseries is a struggle, but if you approach it with a strategic plan, you will overcome it. To create a plan, you must first understand how weeds work and what type of weeds you are dealing with.
Weeds basically grow from seed or multiply from roots. As the roots grow outward from the parent plant, new plants grow from the lateral roots, creating more parent plants and the process continues and the weeds grow. Weeds that are likely to multiply from the root are often more difficult to control. Weed control facts? Weeds are plants and act as desirable plants in your garden. They need water, sunlight and nutrition to survive. Of these three important survival needs, it is easiest for the gardener to eliminate sunlight. By mulching correctly, you can eliminate sunlight. However, we will first look at the steps you need to go through before mulching, and then discuss the best mulching techniques that can be used. In order for your weed control efforts to be truly effective, you must do everything in your power to plant as little weeds as possible before planting or mulching. There are several ways to do this, organic or chemical. I don't like the use of chemicals, but I use them to control weeds and, if necessary, I use them to control pests.
I'll talk about organic control first. The first thing you do is remove all unwanted plants from the planting area. Use a hoe, shovel or other engraving device to cut the roots and remove unwanted plants, roots and everything. Then you have to work the soil by turning or turning the soil manually.
When working, allow the soil to settle for four days or more and re-cultivate it. Do it again and again as time allows. This process has two purposes. The roots left in the soil come closer to the surface, so they dry out in the sun and are unsustainable, disrupting the grass seeds that are starting to grow, making them difficult to live. The longer you continue this process, the more weeds will be removed from your garden.
Weed control facts? Depending on the season, several billion grass seeds are floating in the wind at any one time, so the idea of losing a grass seed garden is wrong, but at least it is. The process is effective for the remaining roots, which is the most difficult to control. When the process is complete, continue and plant your garden. When you have finished planting, you can mulch the bed or turn the soil every week to keep it weed-free. Most people choose mulching. Mulch not only helps control weeds, but if you choose natural mulch, it can also add organic matter to the soil, which can lead to better planting results.
Before mulching, you can spread a newspaper (thickness 7-9 layers) on the ground and place mulch on it. Newspapers block sunlight from reaching the soil surface and help keep weed growth to a minimum. Newspapers eventually rot and do not permanently change the composition of your garden. Paper shopping bags are also great, so the next time you hear, "Paper or plastic?", You'll know how to react.
And what about black plastic or fabric grass barrier sold in garden centers? I don't like it either, and I'll tell you why. First, none of them will disappear and the composition of your court will constantly change until you get it physically, which is real pain.
Weed control facts? Plastic is not good for soil because the soil must be breathable. Plastic blocks the transfer of water and oxygen and eventually your soil as well as your garden will suffer. It is good to use plastic in the vegetable garden if you remove it at the end of the season and let the soil breathe. Weed fabrics let the soil breathe, but it happens that when you mulch the top of the fabric, which you need because the fabric is not good, the mulch rots and comes to the surface. Pounds of weed for sale love topsoil and grow on it like crazy. The only problem is that they grow on the surface of the dust and you have a lot of problems, such as garden with weeds, and a big task to try to remove the dust, which is now firmly anchored in place because it is a weed. rooted. according to.
The cloth grass is also so porous that when the area is exposed to sunlight, it sees enough light inside and the weeds grow under the dust and push their way into the dust. I don't like things. I took it miles from other people's scenes because it didn't work out as expected.
Weed control facts? Weed control with chemicals is easy and very effective if done correctly. I know many people don't agree with chemical controls on herbs, but millions of people use them, so I can tell you how to get the most out of them.
There are two types of chemical weed control, post-emergence and pre-emergence. In short, a post-emergence herbicide kills actively growing weeds. The pre-emergence product prevents the germination of grass seeds. Both selective and non-selective herbicides exist in post-emergence herbicides. A selective herbicide, such as herbicides, is available in grass and forage grass manure. The herbicide will destroy broadleaf weeds on your lawn, but will not damage the grass. One of the most popular non-selective herbicides is Round-up®, it can kill any plant it touches. Rule number one. Read the labels and follow the safety precautions !!! Round-up® is very effective when used correctly, but first you need to understand how it works.
Round-up® should be sprayed on the leaves of the plant where it will be collected, then transferred to the root system, where it will kill the plant. It takes about 72 hours for the relocation process to take place in full, so you do not want to disturb the plant for at least 72 hours after spraying. After 72 hours, you can dig, mow, turn and do as much as you want, because the herbicide has already been transferred to the whole plant. The factory claims that Round-up® has no residual effect, which means you can grow safely in the area where Round-up® is used. However, I would not use it in the vegetable garden without further research.
No residual effect also means that Round-up® has no effect on weed seeds, so spraying the soil makes no sense. Just sprinkle the leaves on the weeds you want to kill. Beware of excessive sprays that fall on the plants you want. To prevent spray drift, I adjust the nozzle of my sprayer so that the spray droplets are larger and heavier and carry less air. I also maintain a lower pressure in the tank by simply pumping the tank with a minimum number of strokes. Just enough to add spray.
Buy a sprayer that you can only use as a special sprayer for Round-up®. Do not use the spray you use for herbicides for any other purpose. Once you have sprayed the weeds, wait 72 hours and then remove, you can now bet. Mulching is recommended as described above. You can use a pre-emergence herbicide to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Depending on the brand, part is applied to the mulch and another is applied to the soil before the mulch. The pre-emergent herbicide creates a soil-level vapor barrier that stops weed seed growth and can be very effective in keeping your gardens weed-free. It usually only takes about 5 or 6 months and needs to be reapplied.
Visit a full-service horticultural center and seek the advice of a qualified professional to choose the pre-emergence herbicide that best suits your needs. Do not use pre-emergence herbicides in the vegetable garden and be careful around the areas where you want to sow weeds. If you walk a little in the area you want to plant, the grass will not grow. They really work.
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